.gif)
Fear and hoping on Regent Street
Ever since the first whisperings that Gap was going to launch its Banana Republic brand in the UK there has been tremendous speculation about its likely fit into our fashion firmament. A couple of months into its British tenure, Banana Republic devotee Suzanne Tosh shares some lurking doubts.
I am very worried about Banana Republic. As you know, Banana-owner Gap Inc has imported the successful brand to UK shores, with its first store located on a premium site on Regent Street, part of the Dickens & Jones refit. Apart from Tokyo, this is the first store to open outside of the States...and I'm worried about Banana Republic.
Firstly let me say that I am an avid fan of the brand. Of all the labels in my wardrobe, the Banana Republic logo is the most predominant. I have masses of the stuff. The Banana is always one of our first ports of call when my man and I visit the Big Apple. They update their merchandise all the time so there is always something new to try on, often stuff that hasn't made it online. Always surprising, not always successful but definitely worth a visit.
But, from the moment a UK opening was first rumoured, I've had lurking flutters of doubt. The first issue I had was pricing. How would Gap price Banana? A "slight premium" was how Gap Inc.'s Anita Borzyszkowska described the clothing price point over here ahead of the launch. But, she assured me, the main objective was to ensure that the range "sits competitively in the UK premium high street". Hmmm, OK - certain amount of latitude in that phrase. So, with nose pressed against the doors on opening day, I hurried to assuage my fears. Sure enough, it did compare well against its competitors in terms of price -I still wasn't sure that frequent flyers wouldn't prefer to hop over the Atlantic and pick up swathes of clothing given the exchange rate, but a few of my flutters had gone.
According to the UK press office, Banana Republic offers 'affordable luxury at competitive prices'. Well, assuming we're just about happy with the pricing, what about the luxury - where does the brand fit in the fashion firmament? In a bit of a pickle really. It's kind of competing with Hobbs on price, but it's not as good quality. It's not as stylish as Massimo Dutti either despite having higher price points and it's not as high fashion as Karen Millen. So where does it fit? Is it in the Principles category? I'm not sure...which is why I am still worried about the Banana. Stephen Sunnucks, President, Gap Inc. Europe said: "With its affinity for fashion and luxury products, London has the potential to be a strong market for Banana Republic, and our customers in Europe have expressed a great deal of interest in us bringing the brand here. This is an exciting first step for Banana Republic in Europe". But is it a mis-step or a step too far?
Mr Sunnucks' summary sounds wonderful, and he certainly has a good pedigree in UK fashion, but if you look at the experiences of parent-company Gap in recent times those doubts start creeping back. Internationally the brand has been having some design difficulties. European and particularly British taste is very different to American taste. Gap Inc has put an entire European design team in place to specifically cater to the different requirements of this market. The US-designed ranges just seemed to lose much of their appeal here - prices were too high and the garments looked too basic. Shoppers here seem to value the individual, slightly off-beat look - just examine the success that Ted Baker has had here and abroad. And although the Banana ranges are lovely, they lack individuality. It's hard to explain; it's not that they are basic, it's just that they have no 'je ne sais quoi' about them - that certain something that sets apart the likes of Whistles for example.
According to Ms Borzyszkowska: "In the last five years, the British high street's strength has been responding to catwalk and designer trends very quickly. Banana Republic has always focused on great working wardrobe solutions for the professional woman - producing high quality classics, with modern cuts and proportions that nod to trends but are not dictated by them". Indeed, the Regent Street store ranges focuses heavily on the Banana 'Monogram' collection - a higher end offering. Each item is created in limited quantities, driving that 'must have' mind set, with the clothes selected from the New York-based domestic company lines, selected by a British buying team in London.
OK, good so far, but (again) where does that pitch the ranges - Autograph, Principles, Hobbs? Definitely not Whistles or Ted Baker. Do we have any retailers that cater solely for the working woman? Do British women have the same working wardrobe requirements as their US counterparts? Is this a marvellous addition to the high street or a niche that simply doesn't need to exist?
There is also speculation that, if successful, Gap could convert some of its ailing UK stores into the Banana Republic format. Thus the initial Banana store is an experiment, a "first step" to test the potentially dangerous retail waters. The UK office wouldn't be drawn on expansion plans of any description, store conversions or otherwise. But, initially with just one store, how can Banana stock the entire range? Like Zara, the merchandise changes constantly in the US, even from store to store. What you see in one will not necessarily appear in another. The great thing about Banana ranges is that they make one style/cut of trousers, for example, in many different fabrics. So although you might fit the 'Martin' cut, you could have this particular style in three or four different colours or even fabrics and not look the same. For this to work, each store really needs to have a decent amount of stock and space to display all the variations. In the US, where there are many stores, of course this is not an issue, but in London I'm not so sure.
According to Ms Borzyszkowska, the store experience is "key". And for this I am grateful because the store experience in Banana stores stateside is really excellent. Commenting, she said: "We have strived to make shopping effortless by creating a boutique environment, with excellent customer service and extremely knowledgeable sales associates who understand our customers' lifestyles. Our customers are professional, modern, confident individuals who are looking to Banana Republic for easy but sophisticated working wardrobe solutions". In addition to the full range, the store also has trained personal stylists to offer free advice to customers, with appointments for one-on-one attention available and tailored to individual needs. The store also offers alterations - a real bonus to us gals not uniformly proportioned.
And the store does look good. Banana has just opened its first stand-alone Monogram store in New York and I would imagine that the new concept looks like the Regent Street site. Clean lines, lovely lighting and excellent visual merchandising. Nicely proportioned changing rooms too - a welcome change from the cramped conditions we UK shoppers usually experience. Staff look good but not sure about the merchandise mix. A lot of work wear which is lovely and gorgeous etc, but how much does one girl need?
Like any good therapist will tell you, it's best to face your fears and so I must with my beloved Banana Republic. I fear that some won't share my opinion on its price point; I fear that the Banana brand will fall between several stools in terms of target audience; I fear that one store may not be enough of a toe-hold from which to build into the UK market and, ultimately, I fear that shoppers simply won't buy and Gap will be faced with a PR disaster. And then what? Do they recruit European designers for here too? I am slightly reassured that the people in charge of the UK operation seem very aware of the strengths and pitfalls associated with such a high-profile launch. And I want it to work - I'm really looking forward going back again and again, to utilising the in-store extras, to have my doubts resoundingly obliterated. But I can't get away from the fact that I remain very worried about Banana Republic.
